Big swell is something to behold.

People stop and stare, folks come down to the beach and just watch all that power and intensity roll into the beach or crash against the headland.It's a primal thing, like watching a camp fire slowly burn. Captivating to one and all.

I remember as a kid skipping school just to watch the best and bravest paddle out and try and tame the ocean, if only for a moment.
Big turnCurvesNot fast enoughOff to battle the seaGoofy v NaturalLeaning into itIn your faceEveryone comes out to watchClassic single finBad dayCharged all day.... and back downLong lines running back into the bay